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While preparing a pasta-focused book, a friend originally from Naples suggested treating lasagne similar to urban planning. The idea is to first determine the size of your oven tray relative to the flat pasta layers, then choose the layer count to correctly distribute the components. Additionally, we concluded that building a lasagne should merge the careful technique of a craftsman with the expressive technique of a splatter artist when adding the sauces.

Handling the Lasagne Noodles

My personal lasagne dish is sized 30cm by 20cm, and approximately three standard-sized dried lasagne sheets create a single layer. When making a five-layer lasagne, you’ll need approximately three boxes’ worth. Today’s common dried lasagne does not require pre-cooking, but these layers rely on a fairly wet sauce to cook properly. Since today’s version uses a dense and creamy sauce, we recommend quickly blanch the sheets in simmering liquid for a short while, then move them into ice water and lay them out on a tea towel to dry slightly. This step shortens the final cooking, which helps preserve the tender quality of the courgette and ricotta filling.

Selecting Your Cheeses

Aware of the current cost of cheese—plus what you may have in your cooler—we include a range of measurements for the fresh cheese, aged cheese and or taleggio or asiago. It’s possible to substitute other types depending on what you have in stock, and compensate with ample salt and pepper and aromatic greens. The key to deepening the taste, however, is initially frying the diced zucchini in good oil with a some seasoning. This is not to overcook them—they will continue melting in the oven, combining with the white sauce and dairy which serves as a structural element for the lasagne.

Letting It Set

It’s widely accepted, lasagne is always improved if you give it time for at least 20 minutes before serving—and up to an hour in a gentle warmth. This waiting period lets the tastes to mingle and the entire dish—particularly the cheese—to become sliceable. Therefore, it cuts neatly into squares. And of course, the last portion warmed up the day after is often the ultimate reward.

Three-Cheese & Summer Squash Pasta Bake

Portions for a family of

Around 15 flat pasta layers, to create 5 layers

3 tbsp good-quality oil, plus extra for preparing the dish

3 large or 4 medium zucchinis, cut into bite-size chunks

Seasoning to taste

400g fresh ricotta

A packed spoonful finely chopped oregano

3 ounces butter, plus extra for scattering

2.5 ounces all-purpose flour

3.5 cups full-fat milk

Grated nutmeg

60-80g aged hard cheese, finely grated

4-7 ounces melting cheese, diced into cubes

2 tbsp breadcrumbs

Directions

Prepare the pasta layers following the package directions; if blanching them, lay them on cloth linens until needed.

Heat the oil in a pan over medium flame, then cook the chopped squash with a sprinkle of salt, moving them around until they start to turn tender. Keep in mind they will continue to soften in the oven, so remove from heat and allow to cool for about 10 minutes. Add the ricotta, herbs and another seasoning.

Heat the dairy butter in a pot, then mix in the white flour and stir to make a roux. Bit by bit add in the whole milk and continue cooking, stirring constantly, until the creamy sauce coats the spoon. Spice with salt, pepper, grated spice and a spoonful of the grated parmesan.

Brush the base of an oven dish with olive oil, spread over a bit of the white sauce, then make a bottom level of pasta noodles. Add another layer using a fifth of the bechamel, topped with a section of the courgette and ricotta, some of the cheese chunks and a dusting of grated cheese. Add with another noodle tier, then continue layering three more times, ending with a final layer of lasagne. Cover that with the remaining bechamel, the breadcrumbs and dots of butter, then bake at 390°F/moderate oven for 20 to 30 mins, or until the edges are bubbling and the crust is beautifully baked.