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I found with joy that the south Indian blend podi – a coarse mix of searingly hot, roughly ground spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

Gather six to eight barbecue sticks (if wooden, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves two people

14 ounces waxy potatoes, sliced into four-centimeter chunks
225g paneer, diced into two-centimeter cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
1½ teaspoon flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
2 garlic cloves, peeled and grated
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
about 3 tablespoons flavorless oil
1 red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
10g fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
½ tsp flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then pour off the liquid and allow to air dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for five minutes, then drain and pat dry.

Add the spice seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then crush or grind to a chunky blend.

Place in a large mixing bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then lightly combine with the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Thread the components on to the prepared skewers, then place on a tray and keep ready – optionally, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Stir all the dressing components in a container. Heat the grill to its highest setting, then bake the sticks for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the intensity of your oven, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, topped with a little more flaky salt and the sauce on the side for serving.